Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol)
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DL-tocopherol, commonly known as synthetic vitamin E, is a widely used antioxidant in the skincare and cosmetic industry. This compound is a form of vitamin E that is created through chemical synthesis, combining equal parts of D-alpha-tocopherol (the naturally occurring form) and L-alpha-tocopherol (its synthetic counterpart). Due to its antioxidant properties, DL-tocopherol is effective in neutralising free radicals, which are unstable molecules that can damage skin cells and accelerate aging.
By incorporating DL-tocopherol into skincare products, manufacturers aim to enhance the stability and shelf life of their formulations, while providing protective benefits against environmental stressors, such as UV radiation and pollution.
In addition to its protective attributes, DL-tocopherol also plays a crucial role in moisturising and nourishing the skin. Its emollient properties help to maintain the skin's barrier function, preventing moisture loss and keeping the skin hydrated and supple. Moreover, DL-tocopherol can promote skin healing and reduce inflammation, making it beneficial for a variety of skin conditions, including dryness, redness, and minor irritations.
Despite being synthetic, DL-tocopherol is widely regarded as safe for topical use and is often included in a broad range of cosmetic products, from creams and lotions to serums and sunscreens, to deliver both preservative and skin health
Antioxidant Protection: Synthetic Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant that helps protect the skin from free radical damage caused by environmental stressors like UV radiation and pollution.
Benefit: This helps prevent premature aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines, by reducing oxidative stress on the skin.
Moisturisation: It acts as an emollient, helping to improve the skin’s moisture retention.
Benefit: Vitamin E enhances the skin's hydration, making it feel softer, smoother, and more supple. It's often included in lotions, creams, and moisturizers to combat dryness.
Skin Barrier Support: It helps to strengthen the skin’s natural barrier function.
Benefit: A stronger skin barrier protects against irritants and allergens, reducing the risk of skin sensitivity and conditions like eczema.
Wound Healing and Repair: Synthetic Vitamin E aids in the skin's healing process by promoting the repair of damaged skin cells.
Benefit: It is often used in scar creams and products designed to heal minor cuts, burns, or abrasions.
Anti-Inflammatory Properties: It has anti-inflammatory effects, which help soothe and calm irritated skin.
Benefit: This makes it beneficial in products designed for sensitive or reactive skin, as well as in treatments for conditions like acne or rosacea.
Preservation of Formulations: Synthetic Vitamin E can help extend the shelf life of skincare products by preventing the oxidation of other ingredients.
Benefit: It is often added to formulations to ensure the product remains effective and stable over time.
Sun Protection Enhancement: While not a sunscreen, Vitamin E can enhance the effectiveness of sunscreens by neutralizing free radicals produced by UV exposure.
Benefit: It provides an added layer of protection against sun damage when included in SPF products.
Improvement of Skin Texture: Regular use of products containing synthetic Vitamin E can improve the overall texture of the skin.
Benefit: It helps to smooth rough patches and even out skin tone, leading to a healthier-looking complexion.
Purpose: Determine whether you’re using synthetic Vitamin E primarily as an active ingredient (for its antioxidant, moisturising, and skin-repairing benefits) or as a preservative (to enhance the stability of your formulation).
Concentration: The typical usage rate for synthetic Vitamin E in skincare formulations is 0.1% to 5%, depending on its role in the product.
Oil-Soluble: Synthetic Vitamin E is oil-soluble, so it should be incorporated into the oil phase of your formulation. If your product has an oil phase, add it during this stage.
Formulation Types: It works well in oil-based serums, emulsions (like creams and lotions), and anhydrous products (like balms and lip products).
Heat Sensitivity: While synthetic Vitamin E is relatively stable compared to its natural counterpart, it can still degrade at high temperatures. Add it to your formulation at a lower temperature phase, ideally below 40°C (104°F), to preserve its efficacy.
Avoid Overheating: If your formulation involves heating, add Vitamin E during the cool-down phase to prevent degradation.
Antioxidant Synergy: Pair synthetic Vitamin E with other antioxidants (like Vitamin C or Coenzyme Q10) to enhance overall antioxidant activity and provide broader protection against free radicals.
Emollients: Combine with emollients like squalane, jojoba oil, or other natural oils to boost the moisturizing effect and improve skin barrier function.
pH Range: Synthetic Vitamin E is stable across a wide pH range (typically 4-8), making it versatile for different formulations.
Compatibility: Ensure compatibility with other active ingredients and excipients. Conduct stability testing to confirm that Vitamin E does not interact negatively with other components.
Emulsions: When formulating emulsions, add synthetic Vitamin E to the oil phase. Ensure it is well-blended for uniform distribution.
Anhydrous Formulations: In anhydrous products like body butters or balms, it can be added directly since there is no water phase to consider.
Light and Air Exposure: Vitamin E can oxidise when exposed to light and air. Use airtight, opaque packaging to minimise exposure and extend shelf life.
Labeling: Ensure that the use of synthetic Vitamin E complies with the relevant cosmetic regulations in your region. Properly label the ingredient (e.g., Tocopheryl Acetate) and ensure it’s within the allowed concentration limits.
CAS Number: 10191-41-0
INCI DL-alpha tocopherol
Botanical Name: DL-tocopherol is synthetic and not derived from a botanical source. Natural vitamin E is derived from plants, with the most common form being d-alpha-tocopherol.
Appearance: A pale yellow to amber viscous liquid or solid (depending on temperature).
Solubility Soluble in alcohol & oil, water insoluble
Chemical Composition: DL-tocopherol is a synthetic racemic mixture of d-alpha-tocopherol and l-alpha-tocopherol. It has a chemical formula of C₃₀H₅₄O₂.
Extraction Method: It is synthetically produced through chemical processes rather than extracted from natural sources.
Specific Gravity: The specific gravity of DL-tocopherol is approximately 0.95 to 0.98.
Refractive Index: The refractive index is around 1.5.
Odour and Flavour: DL-tocopherol is relatively odourless and tasteless.
Preservation: DL-tocopherol is naturally stable, but it is sensitive to light and air. It is often used in formulations with other antioxidants to improve stability.
Storage: It should be stored in a cool, dark place and protected from air to prevent oxidation.
Manufacture Dl-alpha tocopherol is produced synthetically by the condensation of 2,3,5-trimethylhydroquinone with isophytol in an inert solvent (e.g. benzene or hexane) with a catalyst such as zinc chloride.
HS Code: The Harmonized System (HS) code for synthetic tocopherols, including DL-tocopherol, may fall under different codes depending on its form and use. It is commonly classified under HS code 2936.28 for provitamins and vitamins.