A carrier oil (or fixed oil) is a vegetable oil derived from the fatty portion of a plant, usually from the seeds, kernels or the nuts. A Carrier Oil is an important component of a cosmetic such as a bath oil, body oil, cream, lip balm, lotion, or other moisturiser, as it can affect the colour, texture, scent, therapeutic properties and shelf life of the final product.
Carrier oils all belong to a class of lipid oils. These oils are made up of 95% or more fatty acids. These fatty acids have two parts, one of which is fatty and the other is acid, hence the name ‘fatty acids’, and they are vital for survival, health and well being, because, among other things, they provide insulation and shock absorption, are a source of vitamins and energy as well as needing them for healthy cell growth. Some fatty acids are essential, meaning we require them for survival.
Fatty acids are composed of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen atoms, and there are different types of depending on how those atoms are bound together. These are known as saturated, unsaturated, monounsaturated, duounsaturated, and polyunsaturated.
The other small part of the carrier oil is called the healing fraction or the unsaponifiables portion of the oil. This part of the oil contains antioxidants, minerals, tannins, carotenes and is the part of the oil that gives the oil its' unique colour, aroma and taste.
How do I choose a carrier oil for my formulation?
Not all carrier oils are created equal - some are heavier and more occlusive and others are light and volatile. There are a few considerations when it comes to choosing a carrier oil to use either on its own or as a base for an essential oil blend: odour, absorption, shelf life, and skin type. For example, if you are formulating for an oily or combination skin for a lightweight carrier oil such as jojoba oil. If you are more on the dry side, then avocado oil tends to be loaded with fatty acids and is more occlusive in nature.
Oleic acid content is important as it absorbs quickly and can penetrate the deeper layers on the skin. Carrier oils that contain high levels of nutrients including essential fatty acids like linoleic acid and punicic acid, and palmitoleic acid, as well as vitamins A, K, D, C, E are known to contribute to skin health and radiance. Phytosterols content is also important, as these oils help with Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and general skin dryness.
Carrier oils for dry skin: Argan, Avocado, Apricot, Jojoba, Evening Primrose
Carrier oils for oily skin: Camelia, Grapeseed, Hazelnut
Carrier oils for normal skin: Almond, Apricot, Peach Kernal, Plum Seed
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