We all know that vitamin C is an essential nutrient for humans and animals alike. But did you know that it's also great for your skin?
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, which means it helps prevent free radical damage in the skin. It's also essential for the production of collagen, which keeps your skin strong and supple. That's why applying topical vitamin C in the correct formulation can be so beneficial for your skin.
When formulating for topical delivery of vitamin C it's important to understand the parameters with which to get best results. Firstly, vitamin C is sensitive to light and air, and is inherently unstable. If formulated incorrectly it will turn brown and formulation spoilage will occur very quickly.
Secondly, it's important to remember that for successful transportation into the skin ascorbic acid needs to be at low pH—ideally less than 4. At this pH, the charge on the molecule is neutralised and it can be transported more easily across the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of cells in our skins).
Thirdly, it's helpful to look at other ingredients within your formulation that enhance or even amplify one thing to keep in mind is that vitamin E and ferulic acid both have synergistic effects on the benefits your skin obtains from this key vitamin. So if you're looking for a super-effective formula, it's worth looking at what else you can add to it.
Vitamin C can also be esterified into different forms, which offer more stable forms for formulation. These are however not water soluble, and can notoriously be difficult to solubilise, but with careful experimentation can yield wonderful end formula results.
Try our simple 20% Vitamin C Serum:
Distilled Water: 60.5 ml
L-Ascorbic Acid Powder (Vitamin C): 15 grams
Propanediol: 15 ml
Glycerin: 5 ml
Vitamin E Oil: 2 ml
Ferulic Acid: 0.5 grams
pH Adjuster (e.g., Sodium Hydroxide or Sodium Bicarbonate solution): as needed to adjust pH to 3.0-3.5
METHOD:
1. Dissolve Vitamin C: In a clean glass container, dissolve 15 grams of L-ascorbic acid powder in 60.5 ml of distilled water. Stir until completely dissolved.
2. Add Propylene Glycol and Glycerin: Add 15 ml of propylene glycol and 5 ml of glycerin to the mixture. These will act as solvents and humectants, helping to stabilise the Vitamin C and add moisture to the skin.
3. Incorporate Vitamin E Oil: Add 2 ml of Vitamin E oil to the solution. Vitamin E acts as an antioxidant that helps to stabilize Vitamin C and provides additional skin benefits.
4. Add Ferulic Acid: Add 0.5 grams of ferulic acid to the mixture. Ferulic acid helps to stabilize the Vitamin C and enhances its photoprotective properties.
5. Adjust pH: Using a pH meter or pH strips, check the pH of the solution. The pH should be between 3.0 and 3.5 for optimal stability and effectiveness. If the pH is too low, adjust it by adding a very small amount of the pH adjuster (sodium hydroxide or sodium bicarbonate solution) until the desired pH is reached.
6. Mix Thoroughly: Ensure all ingredients are well combined and the solution is homogenous.
7. Store Properly: Transfer the serum into a dark, airtight glass bottle to protect it from light and air. Store in a cool, dark place, or refrigerate to prolong its shelf life.
Leave a comment